more pleasing appearance. Examples of seam finishes are pinked, overcast, Hong Kong, turned and stitched, and serged.
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1. The seam finish is appropriate to the garment fabric, the garment design, the intended use of the garment, its quality, and garment care. |
2. The finish is applied securely so that it remains in place during normal wear and care. |
| 3. The finish does not add bulk to the seam. |
4. The selected finish prevents the fabric from raveling, rolling, or stretching and contributes to the overall neatness of the garment. |
5. The finishes' binding or thread color is appropriate to the fashion fabric, unless used for decorative purposes. |
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DARTS - A dart adds three-dimensional shape to a single section of cut fabric. Darts are used most frequently at locations of major body contours-- bust, shoulders, waist/hips, elbows, for example--and in apparel that is fitted to the body. |
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1. Stitch length is appropriate to the fabric and to the expected stress at the stitched location. |
| 2. The thread matches the apparel fabric. |
3. No creases or pressing impressions are present on the face side of the garment. |
| 4. No dimples or bubbles can be seen at the dart point. |
| 5. Matching darts appear identical in size and angle. |
| 6. The stitching line is smooth without puckers or folds. |
| 7. Both ends of the dart are sufficiently secured. |
8. Darts on heavy or bulky fabrics are slashed, trimmed or balanced, if needed, and pressed open. |
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DART EQUIVALENTS - Gathers, pleats and tucks may be used as dart equivalents or as decorative details. They are created during the actual construction of the garment, as opposed to being applied to a completed garment or garment section. |
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1. Gathers are uniform and evenly distributed and stitched so as not to form pleats. Gathers are pressed flat only in the seam allowance. All visible basting threads are removed. |
2. Tucks and pleats are composed of straight, even folds of fabric, uniform in width unless the design requires variation. |
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